A Festive Guide to London—
Where to Shop, Dine, and Stay

Places and Spaces

From historic department stores to small boutiques, London-born writer Hester Underhill takes us on a whistle-stop tour of her favorite retailers, and drops into a few of the city’s finest hotels, eateries, and watering holes along the way.

Hester Underhill is a British freelance journalist based between London and Athens.
Hester Underhill is a British freelance journalist based between London and Athens.

(London)Some of my earliest memories are of Christmas shopping in London. The bustle of Oxford Street, the glimmer of lights reflected on the Thames, the sudden warmth of a tinsel-strung café, and the sound of revelers making merry in a cozy pub—all these summon instant nostalgia. And little has changed over the years—London still offers the same festive charm that never failed to delight me all those years ago.

The city is a magical place year-round, but come December, London gets an added injection of sparkle. Markets pop up like festive constellations; Southbank’s wooden chalets glowing beside the river, Borough Market’s food stalls fragrant with cinnamon and clove. The heart of the city boasts grand department stores decked out with elaborate window displays, while further afield, Marylebone has plenty of chic boutiques and bookshops, or head east to Shoreditch to discover a whole world of independent makers and small brands.

With its world-class array of buzzy new restaurants and stylish, luxurious hotels, London’s vibrant creative scene means there’s always something new to discover in the city, making it the perfect place to pick up any number of covetable presents to put under the tree this Christmas.

The Ned London— Grand Heritage bedroom
The Grand Heritage bedroom at The Ned London.

The Ned
This grand 250-room hotel in a former 1920s bank is in the heart of the Square Mile. Even if you’re not staying there, it’s worth heading to The Ned to bask in its stately grandeur. And with 10 of its own bars and restaurants, as well as a luxurious spa, there’s plenty for non-guests to discover.

Charlotte Street Hotel
Acclaimed designer Kit Kemp fitted out the interiors of this characterful Fitzrovia hotel, filling its rooms with colorful patterns and a curated selection of modern art. It boasts plenty of snug corners to cozy up in, including a library and drawing room warmed by blazing fireplaces.

The Zetter Marylebone
With just 24 sumptuously decorated rooms, this intimate hotel occupies an elegant Georgian townhouse close to Hyde Park. It’s one of my favorite spots for afternoon tea in the city, with its particularly indulgent array of cakes and sandwiches.

Kit Kemp designed Charlotte Street Hotel, filling its rooms with vibrant patterns and curated modern art.
Kit Kemp designed Charlotte Street Hotel, filling its rooms with vibrant patterns and curated modern art.

Lita
This Michelin-starred bistro in Marylebone offers a contemporary take on Mediterranean cuisine, with succulent cuts of meat roasted over an open fire. The menu celebrates the sun-soaked flavors of Southern Europe with dishes like charred octopus with citrus and fennel, and lamb shoulder glazed in honey and rosemary.

Rochelle Canteen
Think hearty chicken pot pie and sticky date pudding—this stylish Shoreditch eatery serves classic British and modern European dishes. Housed in a converted school, Rochelle Canteen retains a rustic charm with whitewashed walls, leafy courtyard tables, and a warm, unpretentious atmosphere that attracts London’s creative crowd.

Rochelle Canteen, this stylish Shoreditch eatery serves classic British and modern European fare.
Rochelle Canteen, this stylish Shoreditch eatery serves classic British and modern European fare.

Sketch
This Mayfair restaurant is known for its lavish interiors that are regularly reimagined by leading artists and designers. From the pastel-pink Gallery to the futuristic Lecture Room, each dining room offers a different visual world, creating an experience that feels part art installation, part culinary theater.

Core by Claire Smyth
Led by celebrated chef Clare Smyth—the first British woman to earn three Michelin stars—Core is an elegant fine-dining restaurant serving exquisite seven-course tasting menus. It’s modern British cuisine at its finest, showcasing seasonal produce such as Isle of Mull scallops and Cornish lamb.

The Audley Public House 
Built in 1888, this historic Victorian pub was carefully transformed by design and architecture studio Laplace, who commissioned artist Phyllida Barlow to paint a striking mural across its ceiling. Located in the heart of Mayfair, The Audley blends heritage with artistry, preserving the original mahogany bar and stained glass windows.

The one and only Harrods.

Harrods
Whatever you’re looking for, you’ll find it in Harrods. Magnificently opulent and steeped in tradition, this legendary London store quite literally shines brightest during the festive season—when its grand exterior is strung with thousands of glowing golden bulbs. To help you navigate its vast halls of luxury goods, Harrods offers unparalleled customer services.

Making the shopping experience as seamless as possible are a dedicated Beauty Concierge (offering tailored advice and one-to-one consultations), a Fragrance Consultant, as well as a small army of talented private shoppers who are on hand to cater to your every need.

Mouki Mou
This chic boutique is tucked away down Chiltern Street—one of the prettiest parades in central London. At Mouki Mou, you’ll find a pared-back array of clothing, accessories, and fragrances by small labels and artisan makers from around the world—all carefully selected by owner Maria Lemos.

Perfumer H
Crafted by the renowned British perfume maker Lyn Harris in London, each fragrance at Perfumer H comes in delicate, handblown glass bottles that are made to be refilled. The boutique itself feels like a modern apothecary, stocking candles and pantry items alongside scents.

Gifts

Harrods

Coming together over a board game is a Christmas tradition in my home. Aspinal of London’s backgammon board is the ultimate luxury upgrade, with a briefcase-style wooden frame hand-bound in the finest full-grain leather.

Perfumer H’s Rain Wood Scent Perfumer H’s Rain Wood is a particularly evocative scent, with a base of juniper and cedar that reminds me of long walks through wintry British country-side. Not only is it an olfactory delight, this perfume makes for a beautiful addition to any dressing table with its hand-blown glass bottle. 
H’s Rain Wood

Perfumer H’s Rain Wood is a particularly evocative scent, with a base of juniper and cedar that reminds me of long walks through wintry British countryside. Not only is it an olfactory delight, this perfume makes for a beautiful addition to any dressing table with its hand-blown glass bottle.

Mouki Mou

Mouki Mou stocks an array of jewelry from artisan makers, some of the finest of which is designed in London by Pippa Small. This particular pair of earrings was crafted by hand in Jaipur using faceted sterling silver drops encased in 18k yellow gold.

Words
Hester Underhill
Photography
Toa Heftiba

James Healy

Simon Brown Photography

Henry Harte

Sarah O’Shea

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